March Update

Two months into living in Vanuatu and life is finally settling into routine. The alarm rings at 5.30am. I get up, waste too much time checking email and face book, find myself late, throw any leftover food into a sealed container for lunch, have a shower and walk as fast as I can (snail’s pace) to the bus stop.

The buses are hundreds of privately owned vans with a ‘B’ on the number plate and pass every few minutes. If I catch one as close as I can to 6.30am I’ll get a direct route to school “Mi go long PVIS plis?” If I’m five minutes late I could go anywhere (including a lot of places I do not want to go) and the ten minute ride can take up to 40minutes.

My students still continue to amaze me with their mature attitudes, world views and consideration of each other. Yes, they can still be kids but to be honest the worst thing they do is talk too much however if I analyse their talk it is mostly valuable discussion. I’ve decided to harness this vocal energy into weekly debates. I have about eight outstanding speakers who need real competition to move them ahead. We will compete against our own high school students soon but I’d love to see these kids perform in an international debate. For those teachers reading this; I’ve also been giving them the NZ Lit Quiz Sample Questions and the group scores are all eight to ten. I’d score a three or four! They are veracious readers.

We all run an After School Programme to earn a bit of extra money and to cater for students who need extracurricular activities. You guessed it, I run a drama class for years 6,7,8 and 9. It is an absolute delight. They are so clever and funny. If I run an extension class next term I’ll need to call upon TPHS drama teachers for some advice!

Weekends have also settled into routine. Saturday morning I’m up at 7.30am and catching a bus to paddle boarding fitness. I no longer spend the hour sweating and wanting to throw up but actually find some enjoyment in it, I’m also meeting some new people. Maybe I’ll stick to it after all.

Then it’s back to the Kaiviti for breakfast, market for fruit and veges, Numbawan Cafe for a decent coffee and whatever the rest of the day brings. I’m careful to avoid town when the cruise ships are in. Honestly, I think you must be tested on size before you are allowed on a cruise! I’ve never seen so many overweight people wobbly down the street. Yesterday it was like Teletubby Town and nearly every one of the Teletubbies were smoking!!!!

Sundays are for exploring, this usually involves heading off to one of the islands for a lazy day with a bit of snorkelling and reading.  I was really lucky to tour the whole island with my friend Suzy  and her family last week. This really made me realise what a magical wee island Efate is. It’s very easy to get caught up in the whole busy, noisy, fume-filled city and forget that a gentle life exists away from the pot-holed main drag.   Circumnavigation takes three hours but with beautiful bays, hot springs, blue holes etc one could spend days slowly meandering around....and I will.

 

Bislama lessons (local pidgin English) continue to be a heap of fun and more often than not Suzy and I get into giggling fits which won’t stop.  We are a small group, a Dutch photographer, who has an interesting Facebook site called ‘Human Faces of Vanuatu’, a French university professor, a Canadian volunteer, Susy and I.

 

There is much talk here at present of the workers who are heading off to NZ to workthe kiwifruit season. After listening to Ni-Vanuatu speak of their experiences I have to question the worthiness of such a scheme.  Is NZ really providing opportunities for island workers or are they simply generating a pool of cheap labour?  The families and villages suffer; the women work harder, there is no-one to keep teenage boys in line, and no male role models left in the villages.  Troubles brew. The islanders who leave, do so with a specific goal in mind. For many it is to pay for their children’s education which they see as a link to a better life. Most return with only the few hundred dollars which remain after they have repaid their airfares, accommodation and food. If the weather is bad in NZ they don’t work therefore don’t get paid but still have overheads. For some, there have been very bad seasons and they return with nothing.  At times I have felt ashamed as I have listened to their stories. I’m going to dig deeper as I know there is some valuable writing material here.

On a brighter note, every day I learn something new. This week’s lessons: 1)Put glasses on before eating food, those miniature brown ants take only seconds to completely smother any food left alone for the shortest time. 2) Empty the kettle as often as possible. The tickle in my throat after I drink is caused by calcium. When I empty the kettle at the end of the day what comes out looks like huge chunks of blackboard chalk.

I’m always on the lookout for social events that might lead to meeting new friends. Yesterday was International Woman’s Day and Alliance Francaise held a exhibition of art by local women. The food was exquisite, the punch had a real kick, the Ni-Van Women’s’ string band was entertaining (although rather a repetitive sound after a while) and the people interesting to watch. However, watch was all I could do....everyone was young, chic, smoked and spoke French!  I spent an hour  mastering the art of eating delicate finger food, drinking and nonchalantly  looking like I belonged when I totally DID NOT, then wandered home. I hear the Australian Embassy has a monthly fund raiser. Maybe I’ll go to that!!

I’ll be back in NZ early April for a few weeks and hopefully catch up with a few people. Until then, keep in touch.

Lukim Yu

 

 

 

Group Gatherings

As religion is an important aspect of many Ni-Vanuatu’s lives I decided that a visit to the Catholic Cathedral would be of interest. By 8.30am a congregation of about 1,000 people filled the pews. The choir began to sing and the church roof lifted. I was in awe. The sound was incredible and resonated through every part of my body. After a few songs the service began. As a Catholic (although somewhat lapsed) I am conditioned to a 45/50minute service. By 9.30am the offering still hadn’t been collected and the temperature had risen. Everyone furiously fanned themselves and at one point I thought the entire Cathedral was ready for lift off to the heavens. By 10am I was looking for an escape route. It wasn’t going to be easy. I was wedged in between what appeared to be a huge floral garden and a sand-bank. They were in fact only two rather large members of the congregation.  As one of only two Europeans at the service remaining inconspicuous as I sneaked out was  never really an option, so I settled down and prayed for the service to end. My prayers were heard!

I’ve been told the Vietnamese service is very quick so maybe I’ll try that next time. I’m sure it will be the same God and if I can follow the service in French and Bislama then Vietnamese will be a doddle.... or not.

Anyway, I mustn’t have prayed hard enough because later in the week we had two major events. The first was the Tsunami warning which fortunately occurred as school ended so parents collected the students and we managed to avoid a mass evacuation up the high hill behind the school, and the second was the collapse of the adventure playground with a whole class on it. There’s  nothing like a bit of drama to encourage team building among an already strong staff. Fortunately there were no serious injuries.

By the weekend I was ready for an escape so headed to Hideaway Island for the day. It had been ten years since I was last there and it was really pleasing to see that even with progress the island had managed to retain its laid-back, no-frills style. The snorkelling was better than I remembered it. Probably a result of it being a marine reserve.

Anxious that I might revert to a sedentary lifestyle here in Vanuatu I joined a yoga group. However it was a bit physical so I decided to try another, gentler session, one where hopefully all I would be asked to do was sleep on the floor. I arrived at the venue. About 10 medical students were also waiting. No instructor arrived. One of the waiters from the restaurant next door came out. No problem...he had a key. He let us in. We found some lights, got the fans working, opened the doors out to the ocean, set up our mats and looked at each other. ‘Does anyone know any yoga?’ someone asked. One by one we all offered something, ‘angry cat’, ‘dog down’ ‘salute to the sun’.... I suggested ‘sleep on the floor’. Everyone thought it was a great idea so that’s what we did when we’d run out of other suggestions. Then we turned off the fans, the lights, shut the door and went and asked the waiter if he could now lock up. I don’t think the gym owners even knew we were there!!!!!

Such success at yoga made me think it was time to try something a little more adventurous. One of the teachers at school teaches paddle boarding. I pictured myself floating around the lagoon, paddling on calm waters in a meditational state. I hadn’t realised it was Paddle boarding Fitness lessons. I’m not fond of ‘F-words’ especially not THAT one. We didn’t even use a paddle till the last ten minutes of the hour-long session. Try to picture yoga/pilates on a surfboard. My core muscles screamed in pain and it got to the stage where I deliberately kept falling in the water as an avoidance tactic and to cool off.

Incidentally, the session was preceded by a rather awkward bus trip. After everyone had been dropped off the driver asked if I would move to the front seat of the bus. I thought he was going to pick up a lot of people on the way. It didn’t take long to realise this was the first in a series of ‘chat up’ lines. He proceeded to tell me he wasn’t married and didn’t like Ni-Van women, only New Zealand woman. I had no idea where I was going and I was so rattled we ‘overshot’ my stop by about a kilometre. He was quite harmless but there was a lesson here. Don’t let anyone know you are single and if you are invited to sit at the front of the bus move to the back as quick as you can!

My Australian friend Susi and I started the first of our Bislama lessons last night. I’ve decided I definitely haven’t got a gift for languages! Bislama is a form of pigeon English and quite easy to decipher if you read it. However after a long day at school and sitting in a room trying to stay cool and concentrate wasn’t conducive to good learning. However, we are providing lots of entertainment for the Kaiviti staff as we practice our Bislama on them!

Well, that’s about it till next time. Now..... I’m going to kill the thousands of ants which seem to have made a home underneath my computer keys. Every time I type about three scurry out. Makes me a bit scared of taking my computer back to New Zealand. I’m going to have to ‘killim dead’ which is apparently different to just ‘killim’.

I’m sorry there are no photos again with this blog. Any photo of me doing yoga  either in a room or on a paddleboard would give you nightmares!

I’ll try to show something ‘scenic’ next time J.

Don’t forget to let me know YOUR news!

Lukim you

Ange

Week One Done

My first week of school at PVIS has finished. What a huge week.  I have a class roll of 32 but fortunately two haven’t  arrived yet. They are an eclectic bunch. For the teachers reading this, the majority are stanine 7,8, 9  (right ‘up there’ to the non-teachers).

The mix of Australian,  American, English,  French, more French and more French all called Leopold, along with Japanese, two identical Chinese boys (not related)  both called Eric, Korean, Ni-Vanuatu and a mix of everything else makes for a really interesting class. I am fast realising that there is NO way I will EVER be able to cater for their individual needs.

It’s going to be really hard work but already I know I am going to love them. They are hungry to learn. I’ve already explained that I was born last century and that they made need to actually teach me and they all seemed happy with that!!!!

I’m still living at the Kaiviti Hotel. I’ve looked at a few other places but none come close. It’s cheap (or should I say as cheap as you can get in this expensive country), includes power, phone,  internet and security, has a great pool, I can walk to the supermarket, town, yoga, church, the dive shop, eat at the restaurant if I want to and I have daily room service.  There are a number of other permanent residents who I like. It just seems rather weird to say I’m living in a hotel.

Another new teacher, Suzy from Australia is here with me and we have heaps of fun. I’ve been so lucky to have her and will be quite sad when she moves into a house at Mele beach when her husband arrives.  Some long term house sitting offers have come in and the Kaiviti will store my stuff free and not charge rent if I’m away. How reasonable is that!

Port Vila is REALLY expensive to live in. If you get a headache it’s $9 for panadol! I shop frugally and mostly at the market. There is no doubt that any visitor is best to find a  package deal with self catering accommodation.

The traffic is horrendous on cruise-ship day which seems to be every second day! It seems as if every Ni-Vanuatu with a van cruises the roads picking up customers. V150 (about A$1.50) to go anywhere.  I’ve learned that the friendly toots are not cos they think you are good looking but asking if you want a ride.. I can’t quite get use to not using seatbelts. I always try to put them on but mostly it’s a waste of time. This afternoon I got a lift with my principal in the front of her son’s ancient land rover. Talk about a squash...no seatbelts...dodging potholes...dodging cars...bouncing along...I’m glad she got to sit on the hand-brake and not me!

I’ve started going to yoga classes. We sit/lie/etc in a beautiful gym with the doors opened wide and watch the sun set as we do our moves. I’m by far the oldest and sweatiest but as long as I don’t see myself in the mirror I feel good being there.

I don’t want to bore anyone so I’ll save my ‘Finding the Faith in Vanuatu”  blog till next week’s blog.

I love hearing from everyone, please don’t feel insulted by a non-personal blog. School has to come first till I’m up and running.

Lukim U long taem

Ange

PS. I've been trying to put photos on this but the files must be too big. I'll drop some onto Facebook if anyone is interested.

Friday Entertainment

If I thought I was coming to Port Vila to slow down the pace of teaching-life I was surely mistaken. It’s been a full-on week and that’s without students! Having been out of the ‘classroom’ for so long and getting to grips with the NSW syllabus has challenged me as I prepare to meet my new class on Tuesday.  Actually, I met half of them and their parents last night at the Beach Club, the Friday night hotspot for many expats, tourists and locals. The club is on a sheltered beach looking across to Hideaway Island. The drinks were expensive (Port Vila prices) the pizza’s delicious (blue vein cheese, apple and leek for me!) and the entertainment well.....very entertaining.

A group of about 20  local unemployed youth have created a fire dance routine which is a mix of modern and traditional styles including rope walking, fire breathing, dance and poi. It broke the mould of the usual tourist fire dances and it was hard not to be ‘touched’ by this group who obviously had worked hard pooling their own ideas with no professional help to create something special. They involved many younger expat children whom they were teaching their skill and even had a final dance (kind of a Port Vila Gangnam style) which everyone joined in. I thought I was going to put out their fire with the amount of sweat created when I danced on the sand, especially as I inadvertently stood right by the big flame thrower! This is a Friday night event which takes place after the Nippers and youth group programmes on the beach so who knows...I might even be a fire dancer yet. One thing for sure...I’ll watch where I stand!

Hmmmm...I'll have to learn how to take decent photos now!!!!!!!!

Welkum. Long taem lukim u.

Welkum. Long taem lukim u

My first week In Vanuatu is nearly over and It’s been a long time since I have done something which feels so right.

There are so many things I love: the gentle romantic lull of French language, the laughter and banter of Ni-Vanuatu on their way to and from work, their ability to pack far more passengers on the tray of their trucks than can possibly be legal, the way they drive on the right hand side of the road or even sometimes on both sides.

Then there is school....the staff are so interesting in themselves and so diverse as teachers. Each one bringing something new to the school from specialist training to Montessori. It appears that Faye selects many of her staff from a gut instinct....and it works.

The word is that my class of 31 Year Six students (Year 7 NZ) is quite an eclectic group ranging from  Aspergers to gifted and talented students  from 10 different countries. Looking at their work from last year it is hard not to be impressed by the standard and quality of work. Maybe a formal approach to teaching is a way to raise standards.   I’ve got a feeling that I will be learning every bit as much as my class this year.

All staff have their own Teacher Assistant. I have a wonderful woman just a bit younger than me called Naomi. She’s been working at the school for 18 years and will probably be able to run my class while I sit in a puddle of sweat wondering how to do the maths. I really like her, especially the way she keeps cleaning up my coffee cups and bringing me buckets of water to wash my hands in! My room is beside the road. The traffic noise isn’t bad but the dust is horrendous. Layer the dust on a coat of sweat and we all go home a dirty shade of brown. Not to worry though...the school is paying for me to stay at the Kaivite Motel for two months so I have room service and can get my washing done for  V1000 (about $10) if I don’t want to do it myself (which I don’t!)

The photo below is the view from my room.

Port Vila is OP-Shop Heaven! Faye, an Op-shop-aholic took Suzy (a new Australian teacher with whom I have become inseparable)  and I on an Op-shop tour after school today. The shops get bags of ‘seconds’ from Australian factories and further afield. I now have a very full wardrobe of labelled clothes including a couple of Laura Ashley dresses which look stunning.  Three dresses, four  blouses/tops and a pair of hippie trousers for  approximately $30. Now I just need to find someone to take me somewhere to wear them! The dresses that is, not the hippie pants!

School officially starts next Monday so all is very casual. The school board is taking all staff to Chantilly’s (very posh) for breakfast on Friday morning to ensure we get the best start possible. I guess after the weekend I’ll find less time to write. And really, it’s not easy to move forward if you keep looking back so....onward I go.

I feel so excited by the possibilities ahead. I couldn’t have done this without the fabulous support of friends and family. I've got a feeling I'm going to be here for much longer than planned!