Five Must Do Activities
in Northland for Walking, Cycling Grey-Haired Nomads
I never thought I’d even have grey hair let alone join the thousands of. New Zealanders who now are part of a movement generally known as “The
Grey-Haired Nomads”.
There is no official membership but many of those belonging
to this group generally range from mid fifties to late seventies are semi or fully retired, have free time, are
trying to avoid being trapped into supporting adult children, own a mobile home
of some sort, either caravan, campervan or the salubrious fifth-wheeler, and
most probably belong to the New Zealand Motor-Home Association.
In saying all that, I only fit into the age category but
have been fortunate enough to team up with a friend who has all of the above
qualifications. So, letting my hair go grey, (not a requirement to belonging,
just a convenience) we set off for the far north.
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| It's a big rig. No wonder we needed bikes and boots to get us close to the action. |
New Zealand’s first marine reserve, established in 1975 the
area has developed in the kindest way to protect not just the marine life but
the entire surrounds with heavy planting of native trees, information plaques
and carefully placed walkways designed to enhance the area without dominating
the scenery. The gentle coastal walkway which can be accessed right beside the
University of Auckland Marine Laboratory is a gentle and enjoyable meander with
only slight inclines but excellent views of the offshore islands. When you’ve
worked up a sweat, dive into the water for a snorkel with some of the area’s
most endearing marine life and take time to visit the marine centre. The
exhibits are fascinating.
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| Goat Island taken during a hill-top walk |
Matakana-Cycling
This small settlement has pulled out all the stops to
attract passing traffic. You can’t miss
the public toilets, an instant indication that art is an important aspect of
what Matakana has to offer. Have a coffee and carrot-walnut muffin at Plump
Café then hit the cycle trail. The 14 kilometre trail passes through country
lanes and farmland. Directions are found inscribed on a series of ceramic pipes
stacked like totem poles. The hieroglyphics demand out-of-the-box thinking to
follow and we find ourselves lurching from pole to pole as it crosses roads and
lanes. The path, although mostly a well- laid gravel track, becomes a gut
buster at one section. Just as I give in and begin to push my way to the top I
hear a squawk and look behind me. My companion’s bike has come to a halt. He falls over in a slow motion ballet. Struggling
to unclip his cleats from his pedals he disappears down a small bank. Only the
waving flax leaves indicate anything is amiss. Bruised pride soothed we compete
the ride then head towards Whangarei.
Mount Manaia-Walking
The distinct craggy outcrops of Mount Manaia define the
skyline of Whangarei Heads and just beg to be conquered. The two-hour walk is described as “easy” in
the brochures, don’t believe it. Mount Manaia rises 420 metres from the calm
inlet of Whangarei Harbour and is summited by way of a well-defined path and
1000 steps flanked by imposing Kauri trees, Nikau Palms, silver ferns and other
native plants which twine together to create a cramped and dense forest.
Piwakawaka flit about waiting to feast on tiny insects disturbed by dislodged
ground litter. Above us tui call and croak, drunk from the berries plucked from
branches above. I start steadily but soon hold up my overly active friend. He decides to run, yes…run on ahead, running
back to check on me every ten to fifteen minutes. He’s still bouncing up and
down steps two at a time on his fourth re-run. I feel the pressure and I feel
stupid. I insist he goes ahead and waits at the top until l eventually arrive at
the final steps. Grasping the hand rails I haul myself onto a rocky outcrop
flanked by spectacular views. Thankfully, authorities haven’t felt the need to
fence off the area which makes it even more special.
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| View from the top of Mount Manaia |
Pahia to Russell to
Opua to Raruru-Cycling
Paihia is on holiday. There’s a laid back lazy feel to the
place, and I like it. We purchase a ticket and ride the White Ferry, one of
three companies transporting tourists the 10 minute ride to Russell. We’d decided
to cycle from Russell to Opua, unfortunately I forgot to check how many hills
were involved. Uphill hills that is! There were too many and they were mammoth.
The gap between passing cars and cyclist was minimal, the effort needed to
sustain pedalling was massive, and the only thing that kept me pedalling was
the thought of a stop at Opua Marina Café.
The ferry from Okiato to Opua is large enough to carry any
type of vehicle. Needless to say, we had the only bikes. We paid our $1 and
used the five-minute crossing to recover. However, even a great coffee wasn’t
enough to summon the energy required to tackle the hills between Opua and
Paihia. The cycling sequence became predictable, pedal as far as I could,
change to the lowest gear, little legs going round and round but the bike
staying virtually still, wobble wobble, dismount, push, summit, free-wheel down
and slightly up the next incline, then repeat the process. By the time we
reached spectacular Haruru Falls with its gold-coloured droplets coloured by
the setting sun I was too tired to appreciate it.
For a much gentler ride try the new but not quite complete
Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail from Opua to Kawakawa. The gentle
gradient traces an historic rail line, a section of which is still used by the
vintage steam train which runs from Kawakawa to Taumarere. The cycle trail
follows estuaries and inlets, through a tunnel, over bridges and ends in
Kawakawa where the distinctive ceramic columns, garden roofs and mosaic and
tile work of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser define the town.
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| Bikes at rest-Opua Wharf |
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| Haruru Falls |
Whatuwhiwhi on
KariKari Peninsula-cycling and walking
Just 23 kilometres further along the stunning coastline,
past Maunganui, Coopers Beach, Cable Bay and elegant Taipa Beach is Whatuwhiwhi,
a place I had never heard of. Nestled on KariKari Peninsula this area must be
one of New Zealand’s best kept secrets. With butt and calf muscles now used to
daily torment I even felt slightly enthusiastic about our next ride, to Matai
Bay.
This time it was only a short pedal…uphill with head-on wind
then a slight downhill run. Matai Bay. Is a double cove with calm water and
pocked with small rocky outcrops, a camper’s, walker’s and snorkeler’s dream.
We locked the bikes to a pole and walked the length of the bays until the start
of the Fig Tree Track. The trail was poorly signposted and we alternated
between blue ribbons on trees, orange arrows and the occasional DOC sign on a
stick. An hour into it and my enthusiasm had wained. The manuka provided a
thick canopy and a view was illusive but there was no disputing the beauty and
spiritual solitude of this special place. It was time to stop walking and
cycling. It was time to find stillness and peace, leaving the physical exertion
behind and focus on emotional and spiritual reflection. What better place than
here.
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