Biking in Bluff

We are In Bluff. The sun’s trying to come out. The sea sort of sparkles and the smelter definitely smelters by the look of the plume of black smoke shooting skyward across from our campsite.

 We unload our bikes ready to explore this most southerly part of New Zealand. First impressions are not exciting but after a great coffee at one of several interesting wee cafes things look a whole lot cheerier.

We decide to bike to the top of the Bluff lookout, Motupohue. It didn’t look that high and at 265 Metres and it’s probably not, but when you are biking, it’s the gradient that counts and I hadn’t even got to the end of the houses before the sign told cars to “Use Low Gears”. By that stage I had no gears left, just foot power.

So, there I was ...pushing my bike to the top of a very high hill for a very long time! I  kept myself motivated by the thought of the stunning views over Foveaux Strait which I’d read about and the exhilarating ride down. But, as the clouds came over and the view was obscured it became even  harder to keep going.  At one stage as I’m doubled over trying to resume a normal heart rate, my partner Dirk takes my bike and his, and keeps on pushing up hill.

When we reach the top the view is...pretty much non existent thanks to the weather, but I’m a “cup half full” sort of person and gave thanks that it wasn’t baking hot. We locked our bikes to a post and began to walk the Topunui Track, a zillion steps all going down hill. Now all I could think of was how the heck I was going to make it back up the track! A local out walking his dog told us the walk was worthwhile and we’d get a great view of Stirling Point from about halfway along, so we followed him.

Unfortunately, the bush hadn’t been trimmed for quite some time so the view was obscured. This was becoming another of those “good news, bad news” stories. I opted for an about- turn and headed back  up those same zillion stairs to the top of the hill, mounted my bike and careered down to the bottom to ...yes, another coffee shop. So, all in all this story has a happy ending unlike my bum after the ride.

When you can get a good cup of coffee all is forgiven and forgotten.

Steps. There were so many of them but the bush was beautiful.

The giant steel anchor chain sculpture chain created by Russell Beck is near the famous Bluff signpost.  The other end of the chain lies on Stewart Island.

Carry Cash if You're heading to the Caitlins

If you are heading to the Caitlins, that wilderness region in the South Island, New zealand, make sure you carry cash. The real stuff. Coins and notes. Not because you are going to want to go shopping because apart from a few kiwi calendars, printed tea towels and fridge magnets there isn’t much else to buy. No. You need your cash for getting access into various sights $2 for Moeraki Boulders if you enter passed the cafe, $5 for Cathedral Caves as you’re walking through privately owned land (and the most beautifully maintained walkway) and you’ll need that cash for paying for DOC overnight stays and coin operated showers.

So, what happens when you arrive and have no cash? We haven’t seen an ATM since we arrived in the area and hadn’t given a thought to getting cash when we paid for our last decent coffee.

How does a traveller deal in these situations? Well, this is how we’ve coped. (Hopefully we’ll remember to carry cash next time.)

1. Overnight camp in a POP campground. That is: Parked on Private Property usually owned by members of the NZCMA (New Zealand Motor Caravan Association) In most cases these sites have an honesty box and charge a small fee (about $3-$5) sometimes more. We had no cash and no one was around for miles. We turned the bus inside out looking for stray coins but without a couch to put our hands down we found nothing. A strong Catholic upbringing sent waves of guilt as we set up camp. A last look among the hoards of dockets in my jacket pocket and I found....two petrol voucher!  One would be enough. It was a little more than we wanted to pay but the fabulous views from the property made it worthwhile. Everyone needs petrol.

2. Overnight camp in a DOC campground near the Caitlin River. $8 per person. No cash. Fortunately another camper was happy to exchange my last petrol voucher for cash. Problem solved.

3. A second POP site on farmland in the middle of nowhere. A farmhouse nearby. What can I offer? I look in my barely operational pantry. There was plenty of Weetbix. I whip up a batch of Weetbix delight, slightly overcooked by the grill in the tiny camp cooker, lather it with icing and deliver it to the door. Happy farmer...happy camper.

4. No money for showers? Don’t have one. The rivers, lakes and sea are an invigorating alternative and leave lasting memories.
We’re just about out of the Caitlins now. The wildlife and wilderness has to be experienced. The days without internet made me realise just how  connected I DON’T need to be as well as just how hard is not to be connected. And, as for a cashless society? We're not quite there yet.

Nugget Point

Cathedral Caves Beach-where the bush runs onto the beach.

Moeraki Boulders-Not quite in the Caitlins

Cathedral Cave-much more impressive than this photo shows.

Christchurch Emotions

Evening. Christchurch, you took my breath away. Standing in the square, once alive and moving the earth with the Wizard's words and entertaining buskers, tonight you are in a deep mood, empty except for a few tourists shouting into their cellphones.

We watched your fall and rising recovery from the safety of the North Island but now, eight years later, I really understand and feel your pain. I want to take photos but feel that would be like some distant relation photographing a funeral, feeling guilty in my luck at not having to go through it. Just as tears begin, I see a bright neon sign in the darkening gloom “Everything will be alright". A statement that radiates hope and resilience on the side of the brand new Te Puna O Waiwhetu Art Gallery.

Morning. Christchurch, you take my breath away. The sun is shining illuminating steel sculptures, brightly coloured murals and wall art. Trams rattle along rails, tourists wander pointing at ruins. Today, I feel positive and alive. Christchurch, I feel your rising energy and promise to support you in any way. Coins in an earthquake recovery fund are simply not enough.

Caption: Hope. A moment of reflection from the Port Hills.